Tuesday, September 04, 2012






: : brilliantly tape art by .aakash nihalani. via .boom. & my friend ashley .me make see.

8 comments:

fox diane said...

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zai shenlaizai said...

After prolonged use, your bike's tires inevitably carbon frameswill need a burst of air to stay properly inflated.
A variety of pumps exist, but the most common ysbike01 ones are hand pumps that can be carried with you on your bike and floor pumps that need to be stored but are easier to use. Regardless of your pump selection, when you observe deflated bicycle tires,
using a bicycle air pump to re-inflate bicycle framesthe tires typically takes only a couple of minutes and requires no special expertise.
Locate the bicycle extention valve stem on your bicycle tire and unscrew the valve cap, using a counterclockwise motion. Set aside the valve cap. Consult your bicycle manual or examine the tire to find the correct pounds-per-square-inch measurement recommended for proper inflation.
Place the nozzle of your pump on the tire valve and carbon road frame
tighten. Grab the tire and begin pushing and withdrawing the pump's plunger so air begins flowing into the tire. Use a similar motion with your foot if your pump is equipped with a pump pedal and not a plunger.
Keep pumping until the tire feels firm but gives slightly when you squeeze the sides of the tire, or the gauge on your pump indicates you've reached the desired pressure per square inch (PSI). Disconnect the air pump from the tire if it lacks a pressure gauge and attach a handheld gauge to the tire valve to determine its pressure.
Reattach the pump nozzle to the tire valve carbon wheelsif its pressure isn't at the required level and continue pumping. Check frequently on the tire's pressure to avoid over-inflating the tire, which can cause the tire to blowout while riding. Disconnect the pump when the tire is fully inflated and reattach the tire valve cap.
Before you start shopping, in person or online, set a price range and stick with it.
The local triathlon club might know someone looking to sell a bicycle that would be a significant upgrade to yours.

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zai shenlaizai said...

Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the tube by depressing the valve ICAbike01 stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now it’s time to remove your tire, carbon fiber rimsoneside at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily.
Ispect Tube
ow remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track ICAbike01 ofcarbon bike rimswhere it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumference of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once you’ve found the leak, take note ofcarbon bicycle rimswhether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
I don’t recommend using either motor oil or 3in1 oil to lubricate the chain. Motor oil is too heavy and won’t fully penetrate the rollers, and 3in1 oil is vegetable based and will gum up the chain. I also don’t recommend using wax lubricants because while they don’t collect as much dirt, they are a lot of hassle to apply correctly, and wax is simply not as good a lubricant as oil. I do recommend mineral based chain oils like Finish Line Cross Country or Phil Wood Tenacious Oil because they do the best job of fighting corrosion and don’t wash away when they get wet.
Chain Cleaning
For cleaning, first shift the chain into thezipp 404smallest sprocket on the rear. For average dust and dirt, wipe the chain clean with a solvent soaked rag. The easiest way to do this is to hold the chain still at the rear derailleur cage while firmly wiping the lower run of the chain. Then move the chain backward and wipe again until you’ve wiped the entire length of chain. Wipe between the rear sprockets using either a rag or a sprocket cleaning tool. Then clean all of the front chainrings on both sides.
Shift your gears into the middle sprocket both front and rear. Remember that oil does a good job of spreading itself, so try not to over-apply the lubricant. Lubricate the inner circumference of the chain, on the side that faces the sprockets along the top of the lower run of the chain. Run the chain backwards while dropping oil down both sides of the rollers.
Shift through all of the gears to spread the lubricant evenly through the drivetrain. Then use a rag to wipe off any excess oil.

rumah minim said...

it's nice trompe l'oeil.. i still learn it.
desain rumah minimalis

Fred Haro said...

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